Al Faw Palace

Last week, I attended the big New Comer’s Brief, held at Victory Base Complex (VBC) at the famous Al Faw Palace. Saddam built the Al Faw Palace to commemorate the Al Faw campaign fought during the Iran-Iraq War (1980-1988). It’s one of the more opulent palaces and, today, serves as the headquarters for Multinational Force Iraq (MNF-I). The brief is held one a month and provides some insight into all the moving parts that make up MNF-I, US Mission Iraq (USM-I) -- the State Department’s presence, Multinational Corps Iraq (MNC-I), the subordinate command to MNF-I made up of actual multinational divisions (MNDs), and various other commands involved in the reconstruction of Iraq.

Getting there from the IZ meant another Rhino outing. Between forty and fifty of us from the IZ made our way, wearing bulky IBA and helmets, to the staging area near the Embassy and rode over early in the morning. I got another daytime view of Route Irish which now, seemed almost familiar and routine. Like my previous ride in the State Department Suburban convoy, Route Irish and the surrounding Sunni neighborhoods looked well inhabited with a fair share of civilian traffic riding along the route. Coalition member troops and Iraqi Army personnel manned various check points along the way and all looked well organized.

The Rhino convoy dropped us off within walking distance of the Palace which sits in one of the man-made lakes that dot the VBC. One enters the palace via a causeway over the water. The central room of the palace features one of the biggest chandeliers ever built (although it is made mostly of plastic) which is nevertheless, impressive.

Also in the central room is a famous throne, or more accurately, a big gaudy couch, presented to Saddam by former Palestinian Liberation Organization (PLO) chief, Yasser Arafat many years ago. It’s a favorite picture spot with CF members. It features a representation of the Al Aqsa Mosque, also known as the Dome of the Rock, in Jerusalem.

During the briefing, held in an adjoining ballroom, my eyes wandered to the ceiling which featured inlaid designs with Saddam’s now familiar initials, carved in Arabic calligraphy. Even while daydreaming, Saddam demanded your attention when in one of his palaces.