No one was more surprised than me when my immediate supervisor, an army Lieutenant Colonel, told me a few days ago, “Rico, this Sunday you’ll have the entire day off.” Each member of our three-man planning team is to have one full day off every month. I turned to two civilian friends who work for the FBI and DEA and are part of the Embassy’s Legal Attache (LEGAT) office. Their work regularly takes them around the International Zone and they agreed to give me a driving tour of the some of the sites.
We first crossed the 17th of July bridge over the Tigris River to the south bank. The bridge itself, and the area just on the other side of it, is still considered the Green Zone. Local Iraqis who work in the Green Zone can access it from the south over this bridge and its associated entry control point (ECP) on the south bank. After crossing the bridge, we walked on foot through the Coalition ECP onto a walk way. Along the way, we passed a bass relief monument to the construction of the bridge. On the extreme right of the relief was Saddam pointing and supervising to a multitude of construction workers. After walking more, we came to the Iraqi side of the ECP. Beyond was the “Red Zone,” that part of Baghdad not under Coalition control. We briefly stepped over the threshold (but still within control of the Iraqi army security forces) where I leaned over the concrete wall and snapped the first picture. The street was busy with traffic and there were people walking to and fro. It all refreshingly normal until my companions told me a story of an Iraqi housekeeper who worked in the Green Zone who was kidnapped from the very spot we were standing on. I suddenly felt very conspicuous in my uniform and body armor.
We walked back to the car, crossing back over the Iraqi and Coalition sides of the ECP. I made it point to greet every Iraqi I saw in Arabic (Sabah al Haer or Salaam). Most were surprised to hear someone in uniform speak this way and I even got a few smiles which was gratifying.
We did a cursory walk around the vehicle to check for any tampering (read, placement of explosives), crossed the bridge and drove west along the north bank of the Tigris. We drove past the walled US New Embassy Complex which is nearing completion. When complete sometime in mid to late 2008, all US Embassy personnel will leave the Republican Palace and work out of this new compound.
The drive took us to another edge of the Green Zone, the gate that leads to Route Irish. I had been here before on my previous trips to Victory Base Complex aboard the Rhino Runner and State Department SUVs. We U-turned and drove back into the Green Zone, turning north arriving at the famous Crossed Swords compound.
Saddam used this area to review military parades and had it constructed shortly after the end of the ruinous Iran-Iraq War (1980-1989). On either end of the parade ground are two sets of massive curved crossed swords held by giant hands. Many say the massive sculpted hands were modeled directly from casts of Saddam’s hands. Given his megalomaniacal tendencies, I believe this is true. Surrounding the base of each hand holding a sword are littered forty to fifty Iranian army steel helmets cemented in place, representing defeat of Iranian troops. A similar set of Iranian helmets are cemented into the asphalt roadway in neat rows resembling speed bumps which, back in the day, allowed Iraqi troops and vehicles to march ceremonially over them.
We explored both sets of crossed swords and then actually went into the central parade reviewing building, long since looted and abandoned after the invasion in 2003. After a climb up a dark staircase, we emerged into the sunlit reviewing stands. The center set of reviewing stand seats featured mysterious black plastic tubes which split into a v-like shape. After some inspection, I realized the tubes were air conditioning vents that came up from the floor to allow Saddam’s guests to view martial splendor in comfort. We admired the view, and imagined what it must have looked like watching divisions of Saddam’s touted Republican Guard march by the stands.
Inside the building was a large central atrium dominated by a modern looking, but ruined, chandelier. Flanking the atrium on either side were large assembly rooms whose long thin glass windows all were broken. One of the rooms had its entire marble floor ripped out by looters. Although the building was ruined it still managed to retain an air of grandeur. One could imagine important military related functions held at this place.
We hopped back in our armored SUV and drove to lunch at the Freedom Cafe, one of several authentic Iraqi restaurants in the Green Zone. This was a special treat for me; the only meals I’d had in country were provided by KBR at the DFAC. We sat down amongst Iraqis who worked in the Green Zone and ordered roasted chicken, lamb kabobs, babaganoush, and pita bread. It was fantastic. As our food arrived, my DEA friend spotted a Kurdish Iraqi Policeman he knew who had just returned to Baghdad after attending his brother’s wedding up north. He joined us and had a pleasant meal together. The policeman took the liberty of ordering tea for all us after dinner. Arabs drink sweetened Ceylonese tea. I had become a big fan of the tea during a trip to Egypt in early 1992 but had not had any since then. The taste of the tea brought back many good memories of that trip, taken with friends.
After lunch, we drove to the Baghdad Operations Center (BOC), a building near the foot of the 17th July Bridge, where a Joint Task Force of FBI, DEA, and other federal law enforcement agencies work together. It is surrounded by a walled compound that includes a soccer field with actual grass (green is such a rare color here). The FBI was hosting a flag football game against a team of military engineers. We watched the game in the afternoon chilly air, perfect football weather. The FBI team won.
We first crossed the 17th of July bridge over the Tigris River to the south bank. The bridge itself, and the area just on the other side of it, is still considered the Green Zone. Local Iraqis who work in the Green Zone can access it from the south over this bridge and its associated entry control point (ECP) on the south bank. After crossing the bridge, we walked on foot through the Coalition ECP onto a walk way. Along the way, we passed a bass relief monument to the construction of the bridge. On the extreme right of the relief was Saddam pointing and supervising to a multitude of construction workers. After walking more, we came to the Iraqi side of the ECP. Beyond was the “Red Zone,” that part of Baghdad not under Coalition control. We briefly stepped over the threshold (but still within control of the Iraqi army security forces) where I leaned over the concrete wall and snapped the first picture. The street was busy with traffic and there were people walking to and fro. It all refreshingly normal until my companions told me a story of an Iraqi housekeeper who worked in the Green Zone who was kidnapped from the very spot we were standing on. I suddenly felt very conspicuous in my uniform and body armor.
We walked back to the car, crossing back over the Iraqi and Coalition sides of the ECP. I made it point to greet every Iraqi I saw in Arabic (Sabah al Haer or Salaam). Most were surprised to hear someone in uniform speak this way and I even got a few smiles which was gratifying.
We did a cursory walk around the vehicle to check for any tampering (read, placement of explosives), crossed the bridge and drove west along the north bank of the Tigris. We drove past the walled US New Embassy Complex which is nearing completion. When complete sometime in mid to late 2008, all US Embassy personnel will leave the Republican Palace and work out of this new compound.
The drive took us to another edge of the Green Zone, the gate that leads to Route Irish. I had been here before on my previous trips to Victory Base Complex aboard the Rhino Runner and State Department SUVs. We U-turned and drove back into the Green Zone, turning north arriving at the famous Crossed Swords compound.
Saddam used this area to review military parades and had it constructed shortly after the end of the ruinous Iran-Iraq War (1980-1989). On either end of the parade ground are two sets of massive curved crossed swords held by giant hands. Many say the massive sculpted hands were modeled directly from casts of Saddam’s hands. Given his megalomaniacal tendencies, I believe this is true. Surrounding the base of each hand holding a sword are littered forty to fifty Iranian army steel helmets cemented in place, representing defeat of Iranian troops. A similar set of Iranian helmets are cemented into the asphalt roadway in neat rows resembling speed bumps which, back in the day, allowed Iraqi troops and vehicles to march ceremonially over them.
We explored both sets of crossed swords and then actually went into the central parade reviewing building, long since looted and abandoned after the invasion in 2003. After a climb up a dark staircase, we emerged into the sunlit reviewing stands. The center set of reviewing stand seats featured mysterious black plastic tubes which split into a v-like shape. After some inspection, I realized the tubes were air conditioning vents that came up from the floor to allow Saddam’s guests to view martial splendor in comfort. We admired the view, and imagined what it must have looked like watching divisions of Saddam’s touted Republican Guard march by the stands.
Inside the building was a large central atrium dominated by a modern looking, but ruined, chandelier. Flanking the atrium on either side were large assembly rooms whose long thin glass windows all were broken. One of the rooms had its entire marble floor ripped out by looters. Although the building was ruined it still managed to retain an air of grandeur. One could imagine important military related functions held at this place.
We hopped back in our armored SUV and drove to lunch at the Freedom Cafe, one of several authentic Iraqi restaurants in the Green Zone. This was a special treat for me; the only meals I’d had in country were provided by KBR at the DFAC. We sat down amongst Iraqis who worked in the Green Zone and ordered roasted chicken, lamb kabobs, babaganoush, and pita bread. It was fantastic. As our food arrived, my DEA friend spotted a Kurdish Iraqi Policeman he knew who had just returned to Baghdad after attending his brother’s wedding up north. He joined us and had a pleasant meal together. The policeman took the liberty of ordering tea for all us after dinner. Arabs drink sweetened Ceylonese tea. I had become a big fan of the tea during a trip to Egypt in early 1992 but had not had any since then. The taste of the tea brought back many good memories of that trip, taken with friends.
After lunch, we drove to the Baghdad Operations Center (BOC), a building near the foot of the 17th July Bridge, where a Joint Task Force of FBI, DEA, and other federal law enforcement agencies work together. It is surrounded by a walled compound that includes a soccer field with actual grass (green is such a rare color here). The FBI was hosting a flag football game against a team of military engineers. We watched the game in the afternoon chilly air, perfect football weather. The FBI team won.
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